March 20, 2005

The perfect holiday would give you relaxation, action, culture and nature — but only a few destinations offer the lot. Here, our experts name their all-stars of summer.

Procrastination is a terrible thing, but it can have its advantages. Maybe. Take holidays, for example. Spring is almost upon us, and you’ve a creeping feeling that by now you should have booked your big shot of European sunshine for this summer. Trouble is, you’re torn. You just can’t decide where to go.

Should it be a fortnight of sheer, sybaritic sun worship on the Costa Smeralda? A wide-eyed walking holiday among the white villages of Andalusia? To Sienna, for fine art, finer architecture and the Palio? Or an action-packed activity week spent dangling off ropes and paddling your own canoe in the Dordogne?

Hmm, tricky. Wouldn’t it be brilliant if there was a destination with a bit of everything? Sun and sand for those lazy days; sensational scenery for strolling through; a spot of serious culture and history to marvel at; and the occasional chance to put on some Lycra, get out there and play the daredevil.

Well, Bob’s your well-travelled uncle. We’ve found five regions that tick every box, one each in Spain, Greece, Italy, France and Turkey. These are Europe’s all-star destinations, chosen by writers who know their countries inside out. So, if you like your summer holiday to have variety — or are just really bad at making decisions — consider your prayers answered.

Turkey

HIDDEN KAYA was a haven from Mediterranean marauders in the days of piracy; no surprise, then, that this idyllic valley near Fethiye should have continued as the perfect retreat in the tourism age.

The charmless sprawls of Hisaronu and Ovacik may be barely two miles away, but among Kaya's olive groves and pine forests, its country restaurants and mournful ruins, you would bet against their very existence. Here you are among Turkey's most stunning landscapes, and top beaches and archaeological sites are within walking range — though a hire car will allow you to range further, and to try out some exotic sporting activities.

The sun: Oludeniz, Turkey's premier beach, can get terribly busy, but its enclosed and safe lagoon, well served with restaurants, parasols and loungers, makes it heaven for young children. The adjacent sea beach offers basic watersports.

Escape the crowds at Kidrak beach, 15 minutes from Oludeniz, towards Faralya; or continue along this dramatic mountain road to the barely visited strand at Kabak. And from Kayakoy, Kaya's main village, quiet, sandy beaches can easily be reached on foot or by public minibus. A 20-minute walk leads to Cold Water Bay, a cute cove with freshwater springs and a basic restaurant. 8/10

The countryside: nowhere do mountains meet the sea like in Lycia, and nowhere are ruins strewn so generously. Take to the shepherds' paths that cross the Kaya valley under the guidance of a long-term local and his donkey porter.

Alternatively, tackle part of the Lycian Way, Turkey's first long-distance trail, which runs 300 miles from Kaya to Antalya. Too much like hard work? Instead, then, explore the myriad indented coves and islands on a private charter or scheduled boat trip from Oludeniz. 9/10

The culture: local culture is of the ancient Lycian variety, and all the more fascinating for it: tombs cut in the rockfaces and carved sarcophaguses scattered across the hillsides. The ancient cities of Tlos and Pinara moulder in the hills about 40 minutes' drive away; and after another half-hour, you'll reach the magnificent remains of Xanthos and Patara. Or, you can take a boat hop from Gemiler for the fascinating Byzantine ruins on St Nicholas Island.

Kaya itself is the setting for the moving new novel by Louis de Bernieres, Birds Without Wings. It was from here that the Greek population was deported in the 1920s, leaving homes and basilicas to the myrtle bushes and the owls. 8/10

The activity: give your adrenaline a spin by paragliding from the 6,500ft Babadag Mountain or white-water rafting down the Dalaman River. You can arrange not just these activities, but kayaking on Lake Koycegiz, canyoning at Toparlar or Saklikent and microlighting and the area also offers excellent scuba-diving. Or there is always the marvellous Kaya Croquet Club. 7/10

The child-free option: Exclusive Escapes has Levissi Lodge, a one-bedroom cottage with garden and pool in Kaya.