January 09, 2008

Istanbul: Where East and West Collide

With its dramatic location and rich, exotic history, Istanbul is ideal for a winter break, says Alexandra Ferguson.

Why go?

As dusk falls on a wintry Istanbul, braziers are lit on roof terraces across the city. The call to prayer echoes in the crisp night air and floodlit minarets punctuate the skyline. Across the inky waters of the Golden Horn, young Istanbullus sip cocktails in the bars of Beyoglu, while in the historic Sultanahmet district, old men still puff on narghile - waterpipes - and chat over delicate glasses of tea.

Exotic enough to give a frisson of culture shock, yet just four hours away Istanbul is a great place to shake off any winter sloth. The legacy of Byzantium and Constantinople lives on in its palaces, museums, churches and mosques. And Topkapi Palace, residence of the Ottoman sultans, is an unmissable sight.

When the facts and figures start to blur, you can sample the designer stores of Nisantasi, or hone your bartering skills, and sense of direction, in the labyrinthine Grand Bazaar.

Travel by...

Tour operator: I travelled with Turkey specialist Exclusive Escapes.

Stay at...

Sirkeci Konak - a stylish, modern hotel overlooking Topkapi Palace Park - has friendly staff, and the restaurant is great value.

The exquisite interior of the Four Seasons Hotel belies the building's history as a prison. The original neoclassical features have been preserved and the old exercise quad is now a formal courtyard garden.

Spend the morning...

Exploring the cobbled streets of the old town. Start in Sultanahmet Square at the sixth-century Hagia Sophia, a vast Christian basilica which became a mosque under the sultans. Open 9am-5pm (Tues-Sun); adults £4, under-sevens free.

Afterwards, cross the gardens to the beautiful Blue Mosque, where you can admire the fine stained glass and turquoise and indigo hues of the intricate Iznik tiles. Admission free.

The Anatolian treasures at the Archaeology Museum include the ornate Alexander Sarcophagus, which depicts the life of Alexander the Great, but does not, despite the name, contain his body. There are tablets from the world's oldest surviving peace treaty, from 1269BC, while the Istanbul galleries hold a section of the giant chain that once barred the entrance to the Golden Horn. Open 9am-5pm (Tues-Sun); adults £2, under-sevens free.

Lunch in...

For the best kofte (meatballs) in town, join the locals at Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi Selim Usta (12 Divanyolu Caddesi, 212 520 0566). Mains from £3. Amedros Café (7 Hoca Rustem Sokak, 212 522 8356) offers salads and pasta dishes from £4.

Stroll around...

The courtyards and pavilions of Topkapi Palace. Emeralds the size of golf balls adorn daggers in the treasury, while the state rooms of the harem are encrusted in mother-of-pearl, ivory and gold. Open 9am-5pm (Wed-Mon); adults £4, under-sevens free. Admission to the harem: £4

Afterwards, visit the Grand Bazaar to browse the jewellery, carpets, textiles and leather goods. Head north along the passageways and emerge among the heady aromas of the Spice Bazaar, beside the Golden Horn. Open 8.30am-7pm (Mon-Sat).

Buy...

Turkish delight at Haci Bekir confectioners to the Ottoman Court. Traditional ceramics and tiles at Iznik Classics. Antique rugs at Sisko Osman in the Grand Bazaar.

Have dinner at...

Asitane in Edirnekapi as long as you're adventurous. The chef has raided ledgers from the palace to recreate Ottoman dishes such as quince stuffed with lamb, veal, rice, pine nuts and raisins. Mains from £10.

For simple, fresh fish served in a charming old house, try Balikci Sabahattin. Mains from £12.

Chic rooftop restaurant Mikla at the Marmara Pera Hotel serves modern Mediterranean cuisine against the backdrop of the Golden Horn. Mains from £13.

Stay up late...

The lounge at the Kybele Hotel is fantastically quirky. Glass lamps crowd the ceiling above the antique furniture.

Alternatively, join the fashionable crowd at rooftop bar 360 for cocktails and sweeping city views.

Recover among...

The mosaics and frescoes of the tiny Chora Church. Hidden under plaster for 500 years, the New Testament scenes were uncovered in the 1950s. The detail is breathtaking: the folds of Christ's robes, the rocks of the wilderness, and the water turning to wine. Open 9am-5pm (Thurs-Tues); adults £4, under-sevens free.

If you like your culture more up-to-date, watch the traffic on the Bosphorus from the café at the Istanbul Modern gallery home to Turkey's best contemporary art. Open 10am-6pm (Tues-Sun) and 10am-8pm (Thurs). Adults £3, under-sevens free.

At all costs avoid...

The sickly apple tea served to tourists. Stick to the traditional brew.