The Daily Express Magazine

Turkish delights

Go above and beyond the tourist trail to discover the hidden charms of Turkey’s magical Cappadocia. - Jennifer Rodger

Floating high above the ‘fairy chimneys’ and pock-marked hills of Cappadocia in a hot air balloon, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d strayed on to a fantasy film set.

But the hauntingly beautiful landscape in this area of central Turkey is not the work of Hollywood special-effects team, but the result of an eruption from Mount Argaeus 10 million years ago, which covered the rock in volcanic rock.

Because the soft lava deposit is easy to chisel, the landscape is full of caves, carved out of the hillsides by local people seeking shelter from the hot sun. The unusual dwellings also made ideal hiding places in this Christian heartland during the times of religious persecution at the hands of invading Roman and Arab forces, when the faith was literally forced underground.

Eventually, churches and even entire cities were hewn into the rock, at one time housing up 30,000 people. But in the mid 1950s, the caves were ruled unsafe for human occupation, and residents were relocated. A recent change in the law, however, has allowed the caves to be adapted into hotels. Now, visitors can imagine living as the locals did hundreds of years ago, although the once primitive facilities have since been replaced with luxurious beds and bathrooms.

This part of Turkey, a two-hour flight from Istanbul, has yet to become a popular tourist attraction, and since most of the underground sights are not served by public transport, hiring a car is essential. If you want to gain an insight into the region’s complex history and culture, a tour guide may also be advisable.

Our guide suggested three-half day trips: to Goreme, at the heart of the region, to view the abundance of chapels intricately decorated with religious iconography; Ihlara, for hikes over the Salvador Dali-style landscape, taking in the legendary Three Valleys, and also Kaymakli, for the underground cities. Each are within one hour’s drive of one another.

By far the best way to take in the spectacular scenery is from the air. No trip to Cappadocia is complete without a hot-air balloon trip, and with its perfect flying conditions, unique views and absence of animals or crops as obstacles, the are is a favourite with ballooning enthusiasts. The sky is usually at its clearest at sunrise, so an early 5am flight is recommended. Once passengers have overcome the scary lift-off and the alarming drifting sensation, the thrill of dipping in and out of valleys and soaring over fruit orchards and vine-green slopes in such an elegant mode of transport takes over.

Provided the flying doesn’t make you too queasy, you can then look forward to refueling on traditional Turkish cuisine. Kebabs and moussaka are the order of the day, and two people can usually eat for around £15 a head, including a glass of wine.

Alcohol is cheap, and while strict muslim code does not allow it, tourists can buy drink in restaurants and shops in moderation. The local Turasan winery is one of several in the area that are popular with tourists.

Once you’ve had your fill of the magical caves of Cappadocia, why not sample the bustle of cosmopolitan city life in Istanbul?

Here, East meets West, and the old and new worlds collide at a frenetic pace. The Bosphorus River divides the city in two, leaving it in an unusual geographical and cultural position, with one half on the European continent, the other in Asia.

The main historic district is Sultanahmet. Located on the Golden Horn, it contains many of the must-see attractions, including the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and Aya Sofia – which was once a church, then a mosque and now a museum. Beyoglu is very popular area with hip young Turks and upscale tourists, and with its abundance of bars and restaurants, its Taksim Square is a hubbub of activity.

There are plenty of cheap cafés which serve a selection of meze, or appetizers, chosen from trays passed around at regular intervals. Traditional kebab cuisine (kebapci) can be found nestled down side streets in the Sultanahmet district. Fish restaurants are high quality and relatively cheap – a fresh fish dish like lefrek (seabass) is about £10-15. There are also meat options like kofte (meatballs) and sis (grilled meat chunks).

Taxis are a cheap, if somewhat scary, transport option in a sprawling city with a haphazard network of hundreds of narrow streets. But the main tourist areas are all within walking distance from each other, so much of the sightseeing can be done on foot.

When you tire of beating the tourist trail, the Turks have the ideal place to unwind. The haman is Turkey’s answer to the steam room, developed during Roman times, with admission around £10. On entering, you disrobe into a sarong, then laze under a cloud of steam – alternating between hot and very hot rooms with showers in between. A vigorous massage is an effective option for extreme stress relief, though perhaps not everyone’s idea of relaxation!

But then, much of the Cappadocia and Istanbul experience challenges your idea of a normal holiday, so why not go with it?